Hitler’s Wolf Lair
During World War II, Hitler spent 800 days or the equivalent of three one-half years at this wartime redoubt located near the very small village of Ketzryn, hidden within Poland’s heavy forested northeast wilderness. The complex consisted of 80+ heavily fortified buildings/bunkers from which Hitler directed Germany’s invasion of Russia. Why was this location chosen.... railroad nearby, lake for water, remote - not heavily populated, near Russian front, easily accessible to Berlin by plane.
What I found amazing was that the Allies and Russians claim to not have known about these fortifications and Hitler’s presence during a three and one-half year period. All materials and skilled labor were transported by rail from Germany to northeast Poland. The thickness of the bunker walls, rebar/steel beam reinforcement and the immense size of the buildings are astonishing. To not have known would indicate a huge intelligence failure!
As we walked the paths of history, our guide showed us pictures of Hitler, members of his staff and sparse living accommodations at the complex.
The one serious attempt on Hitler’s life occurred in July 1944 when Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg placed a bomb, hidden in a briefcase, under a large table during a one of Hitler’s daily military briefings. The bomb exploded, killed four German officers but only injured Hitler. All conspirators involved were identified and executed. The plaque below memorializes this assassination attempt. This incident was documented in the 2008 historical thriller movie "Valkyrie".
After the devastating defeat inflicted by the Soviet Army and harsh Russian winter, the Germans began their withdrawal back through Poland and into Germany. “Der Furher” abandoned the “Wolf’s Lair” in November 1944 and returned to Berlin in hopes of rallying his armies. The entire complex was destroyed by his SS troopers and Wehrmacht units. It was never attacked or bombed by the Allies or Russian military.
After departing the “Wolf’s Lair, we stopped for lunch before traveling by bus to Swieta Lipka, a beautiful and important Catholic pilgrimage shrine.
Swieta Lipka Shrine
The history of Swieta Lipka Shrine begins in the 14th century and involves a convict, a carved wooden statue, miracles and a Linden tree. The Shrine contains beautiful frescoes and an 18th-century organ with moving figurines. The main attractions of the Shrine are the image of Our Lady of Swieta, preserved over the altar, and a brief organ concert accompanied by moving angels and trumpeters. Thousands of pilgrims come to visit the Shrine each year even though it is located in a remote rural area.
We head back to our castle hotel in Ryn where we have dinner at a nearby lake side restaurant.
It has been a long and exciting first full day on the road; time to pack and get some rest. Tomorrow, we depart at 9 AM for Gdansk.
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